Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 16
18m. The wall beyond the two flake/cracks is home to this enjoyable and technical sport route. The normal method on the crux is out left but direct is also possible at the same grade.
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The original route and the best way up the wall.Intricate and fingery-excellent.
wandering line and awkward climbing, not much fun all in all, 0 stars.
Spoilt by two bollox eliminates squeezed in on either side, making it really hard to work out where this actually goes. Poor/dirty rock high up. Probably a 1 star route before, not worth any now.
Failed on this due to pump and rope drag. Great climbing on great rock, but HARD all the way. Harder than any other F7a I've flashed/attempted.
I did this again a few weeks ago and still think it worth 2 stars if not 3. It was never an easy route to on-sight and the definitive guidebook description does hint at the need for 'deceptive and subtle sidesteps' and explains the need to move right across the upper tower. How much more info do you need? The bolts are all in just the right places as far as I am concerned (but then I would think that as I re-bolted it a few years ago).
I went back to this today for another look - it took a while to work out where exactly it went (and the other bolts really don't help in this regard), but once I'd sorted it out the bolting does make sense although there are still a number of reachy/awkward clips to be made.