Dreamtime

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 7c+

Adjacent Routes
<< Next Direct < Aboriginal Sin  |  Sticky Wicket > Indian Summer >>


The elegant groove breaking out of The Directissima succumbs to sustained and powerful bridging in a wild position.
FA. Chris Sowden 16.5.1987

USER COMMENTS

A fantastic route, but high in the grade.
Paul Gray - 20/Dec/01

Never 8a!
joe le sage - 09/Sep/02

An excellent route spoilt by the fact that the crux is clipping the bolts. Can we re bolt it?
Craig - 21/Jul/03

i thought the clips made the route. having to get above the top bolt in the groove and clip it at your knees is the icing on a fairly tasty cake...
joe le sage - 31/Oct/03

....or alternatively use slings stuck to the rock with strapell tape at the optimum clipping position
Simon Lee - 24/Jan/05

....or get a kneebar in the groove and clip fairly comfortably from the glued edge
Boy - 23/May/05

The worst route I've been on at Kilnsey. Dirty - the bolts are two feet off route - loose rock and glued on holds. It should be re-bolted properely.
Richard Davies - 27/Jun/05

A superb route. Clipping all the spangly resin staple bolts is quite easy, you just have to do some thinking and some climbing! I don't recall finding any loose rock anywhere.
ian denton - 01/Aug/06

Great route. Clip the bolts once they're at groin height, no problemos. Quite short and low in the grade for lanky folk. Much easier than The Ashes!
Tom - 26/Aug/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard 8a 0 of 17
    8a 0 of 17
    easy 8a 2 of 17
    hard 7c+ 5 of 17
    7c+ 7 of 17
    easy 7c+ 3 of 17
    hard 7c 0 of 17
    7c 0 of 17
    easy 7c 0 of 17
    3 Stars 11 of 13
    2 Stars 0 of 13
    1 Star 1 of 13
    0 Stars 0 of 13
    Bag of ..... 1 of 13

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