South West Buttress
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300m . From a start on the left of the slabs, traverse right to the cracks that lead to a big grass ledge. Traverse right again and climb cracks and grooves and traverse right, heading to a stance below a big overhang. Climb left of this up grassy grooves and exit right to the terraces above the cliff.
FA. Trond E Seem, Haakond Christiansen 7.7.1994
Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are a bit fuzzy but hey.......
Pitch 1 is a doddle - Hard Severe?
Pitches 2 & 3 are pretty bold - both have fairly big run outs to make the belay but are technically pretty easy - HVS 4c 1sh?..... Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for
Pitch 4 could be straightened out - instead of heading up and left to belay, head up to the ledge as per description and then traverse right as per the pitch 5 description to belay in the crack that the described Pitch 5 ascends (make sense?!).
Pitch 6 is pretty wide (if you know what I mean). If you're not into that, take a couple of Friend 4s - or a five if you can be bothered - HVS 5a?
Pitch 7 is a nice technical groove - E15b?
Pitch 8 is easy VS ish
We couldn't work out the last pitch - it looked a good touch harder than the rest and pretty dirty. However a traverse right (obvious) leads to a gogarthesque pitch of heather and filth (technically easy)
Now, the fun bit........
The guide suggests heading up to the ridge and then dropping down to the left to access a gully (shown as a descent on the topo). We couldn't work this out - there doesn't seem to be a sensible way off the summit ridge (the backside is a pretty big wall - you can see this as you drive into Reine from the North).
Ascend up and diagonally left from the top of the route for circa 200 metres until you reach a big grasy bowl (obvious). Traverse this to find yourself at the top of a West facing gully, leading down towards the fjord (obvious boulder at top). Descend the gully via 9(?) abseils off threads and slung boulders, with a steep abseil in the lower reaches of the gully, until it is possible to scramble down to the fjord and the approach.
A good day out - by way of comparison, felt more demanding thanm Vestpillaren.
tomovenstone - 11/Nov/08
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