Sørvest pillaren

2 Stars
 5+

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Start on the left of the slabs. </br>1) 4+. 2) and 3) Quite bold with fairly big run-outs to make the belay but are technically pretty easy (5). Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for.</br>4) This could be straightened out - instead of moving left to belay, head up to the ledge as in the topo, then traverse right to belay in the crack of Pitch 5.</br>6) The crack is pretty wide. Take a couple of big cams (5+).</br>7) A nice technical groove (6-).</br>8) The last pitch looks a good bit harder than the rest and pretty dirty, however a traverse right (obvious) leads to a pitch of heather and filth. Fortunately it is technically easy (4+).
FA. Trond Seem, Haakon Christiansen 7.7.1994

USER COMMENTS

Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are a bit fuzzy but hey.......

Pitch 1 is a doddle - Hard Severe?

Pitches 2 & 3 are pretty bold - both have fairly big run outs to make the belay but are technically pretty easy - HVS 4c 1sh?..... Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for

Pitch 4 could be straightened out - instead of heading up and left to belay, head up to the ledge as per description and then traverse right as per the pitch 5 description to belay in the crack that the described Pitch 5 ascends (make sense?!).

Pitch 6 is pretty wide (if you know what I mean). If you're not into that, take a couple of Friend 4s - or a five if you can be bothered - HVS 5a?

Pitch 7 is a nice technical groove - E15b?

Pitch 8 is easy VS ish

We couldn't work out the last pitch - it looked a good touch harder than the rest and pretty dirty. However a traverse right (obvious) leads to a gogarthesque pitch of heather and filth (technically easy)

Now, the fun bit........

The guide suggests heading up to the ridge and then dropping down to the left to access a gully (shown as a descent on the topo). We couldn't work this out - there doesn't seem to be a sensible way off the summit ridge (the backside is a pretty big wall - you can see this as you drive into Reine from the North).

Instead;

Ascend up and diagonally left from the top of the route for circa 200 metres until you reach a big grasy bowl (obvious). Traverse this to find yourself at the top of a West facing gully, leading down towards the fjord (obvious boulder at top). Descend the gully via 9(?) abseils off threads and slung boulders, with a steep abseil in the lower reaches of the gully, until it is possible to scramble down to the fjord and the approach.

A good day out - by way of comparison, felt more demanding thanm Vestpillaren.
tomovenstone - 11/Nov/08

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