Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
(Spring lust) A steep and powerful route tackling the superb crack system splitting the big rounded pillar overlooking Geitvika. The line is unmistakable, tackling the prominent line of cracks and grooves. The whole line has been thoroughly cleaned so there is little chance of getting lost. Bring PLENTY of cams!</br>1) 7-, 35m. Climb the crack to an overhang then the continuation to its end. Traverse left to another crack leading to a ledge.</br>2) 6+, 35m. The crack leads past a blank section, and a niche, to a torrid off-width below a small stance.</br>3) 7, 35m. Follow the crack, then make a thin traverse right into another steeper crack and storm up this to a stance.</br>4) 5-, 30m. Climb discontinuous cracks then move out right past a loose flake to the arete. Climb past a tree to the top. </br>Descent - From the top of the cliff, take the path leftwards then down from Heiavatnet lake.
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Guess emphasis on "has been ... cleaned" is more correct. It's still i very good climb though. The new route to the left, Siste Sommaren, put up by finnish climbers (7 A0), was free climbed by Frej Wichman and myself at 7+. The last pitch was very loose and I wouldn't climb it again. Guess it's possible to rappel from the bolt belay to the first belay of Vårkåt.
Hi. I don't agree with Magnus about the last pitch of Den Siste Sommeren. I think you climbed another end to the route. Possibly too much to the right? The original last pitch is not cleaned and goes straight up from the last belay: it follows the v-shaped groove.
Hi. I chose the corner to the right you mention, and that was solid, but dirty, and I tried to clean it on the lead. Second pitch is super nice. I fell on the crux and for that reason I gave grade 7/A0. I believe your ascent was first free accent, congratulations. Hope Frej is okay now!
Regarding "Den sista Sommeren": We did probably the same last pitch as Antti and Anna-Liisa, straight up from bolted belay in a tight groove with fingers in a corner at the top; a very good 6+ pitch on solid rock.
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