Vårkåt

3 Stars
Pumpy
 7

Adjacent Routes
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A steep and powerful route tackling the superb crack system spitting the big rounded pillar overlooking Geitvika. The line is unmistakable, tackling the prominent line cracks and grooves. The whole line has been thoroughly cleaned so there is little chance of getting lost. Bring PLENTY of cams!
1) 7-, 35m. Climb the crack to an overhang then the continuation to its end. Traverse left to another crack leading to a ledge.
2) 6+, 35m. The crack leads past a blank section, and a niche, to a torrid off-width below a small stance.
3) 7, 35m. Follow the crack then make a thin traverse right into another stepper crack, storm up this to a stance.
4) 5-, 30m. Climb discontinuous crack then move out right past a loose flake to the arete. Climb past a tree to the top.
Descent - From the top of the cliff, take the path leftwards then down from Heiavatnet lake.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Nils Paulsen, Truls Seines 1994
FFA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Patrik Fransson 1995

USER COMMENTS

Guess emphasis on "has been ... cleaned" is more correct. It's still i very good climb though. The new route to the left, Siste Sommaren, put up by finnish climbers (7 A0), was free climbed by Frej Wichman and myself at 7+. The last pitch was very loose and I wouldn't climb it again. Guess it's possible to rappel from the bolt belay to the first belay of Vårkåt.
Magnus - 13/Aug/08

Hi. I don't agree with Magnus about the last pitch of Den Siste Sommeren. I think you climbed another end to the route. Possibly too much to the right? The original last pitch is not cleaned and goes straight up from the last belay: it follows the v-shaped groove.
anttimankinen - 14/Aug/08

Hi Antti
I climbed the groove which became sort of a chimney and on to a little ledge. Then it was possible to choose a corner to the right that was very dirty or to the left which looked clean but looser. Chose left...
Did we FFA it? Really liked the 2nd pitch. By the way, on the first attempt Frej pulled loose a block on to his hand on the first pitch and had to see a doctor.
Magnus - 15/Aug/08

Hi. I chose the corner to the right you mention, and that was solid, but dirty, and I tried to clean it on the lead. Second pitch is super nice. I fell on the crux and for that reason I gave grade 7/A0. I believe your ascent was first free accent, congratulations. Hope Frej is okay now!
anttimankinen - 16/Aug/08

Regarding "Den sista Sommeren": We did probably the same last pitch as Antti and Anna-Liisa, straight up from bolted belay in a tight groove with fingers in a corner at the top; a very good 6+ pitch on solid rock.
Jonas Wiklund - 26/Jul/10

Back to Varkat:
Steep and Solid. Top10, for sure.
The first pitch is pretty easy for the grade. Crux at the start, followed by amazing finger cracks.
Second is also very good. Not really an of width, but a kind of hands with bodyeffort.
Third is way harder then the rest. A bouldery crux, very technical. Good protection if you find a free hand to place it. Then very steep crackclimbing. Instead of a 4. pitch it is much better to extend the third a little bit to a small but comfortable ledge. We fixed a belay there with one Friend and 1 rock to rappel. The following meters are just vegetated. But with 60m ropes you can reach a bolted belay from DSS. And with another 60m you are back on the ground.
Urs Odermatt - 14/Jul/14

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