Left Approximation

 5

Adjacent Routes
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About 600m, 18 pitches. The left-hand edge of the face is bounded by grass slopes. Start right of these and cross the right-hand side of a curving overlap (5-) then trend left up slabs for four or five pitches (4) to reach a prominent steep groove. Above this, some huge loose flakes have to be crossed to reach three left-trending overlaps. Cross the first one and belay under the second, before following it leftwards to a grassy ledge. Head round the right-hand side of a roof and climb flake-cracks up and right to poorly protected friction moves (6-) leading to the base of a basalt dyke/gully.
From here there are three choices:
1) Abseil down the route (no fixed anchors?).
2) Trend left across slabs to reach a col on the ridge.
3) Follow the dyke for seven more pitches, crossing a roof (5), and arriving on the North Ridge one pitch below the summit.
FA. Ole Klingeman, Eggert Keller 7.1997

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