Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 55
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish.
crux is where it joins balas!
definately worth 7b+ if you go all the way to the top. Only 7b to the lower belay.
Recent bolt replacement
if the bolts were replaced "recently", they must not have been stainless, they're in a pretty rusty state right now.
Much of the bolt installation at Kilnsey is rubbish - mixing stainless & mild steel, resin bolts not placed placed deep enough. If you're going to bolt / retro bolt a route, please do it properly!?!
I thought the bolts were fine when I did it last year
They probably were fine then. But mixing mild and stainless steels then adding water can massively accelerate corrosion of one or both of the metals involved, dramatically reducing the lifespan of the bolts. The science is pretty simple and there's lots of info on the web...