Frankie Comes to Kilnsey Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 7b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Floccipaucinihilipilificatious < Witches Brew  |  Balas > Solidarity >>


22m. A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of the Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish.
FA. Pete Gomersall 1985. Originally a bold A5. Climbed without bolts by Martin Berzins 1987. The bolts have been in and out over the years but are now in and likely to stay.

USER COMMENTS

crux is where it joins balas!
gr - 27/Jun/01

definately worth 7b+ if you go all the way to the top. Only 7b to the lower belay.
andy farnell - 30/Jul/01

Recent bolt replacement
paul - 16/Sep/03

if the bolts were replaced "recently", they must not have been stainless, they're in a pretty rusty state right now.
richardh - 17/Sep/06

Much of the bolt installation at Kilnsey is rubbish - mixing stainless & mild steel, resin bolts not placed placed deep enough. If you're going to bolt / retro bolt a route, please do it properly!?!
BIRKBY - 17/Apr/07

I thought the bolts were fine when I did it last year
PS - 26/Apr/07

They probably were fine then. But mixing mild and stainless steels then adding water can massively accelerate corrosion of one or both of the metals involved, dramatically reducing the lifespan of the bolts. The science is pretty simple and there's lots of info on the web...
BIRKBY - 26/Apr/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard 7c 0 of 31
    7c 0 of 31
    easy 7c 0 of 31
    hard 7b+ 6 of 31
    7b+ 20 of 31
    easy 7b+ 3 of 31
    hard 7b 2 of 31
    7b 0 of 31
    easy 7b 0 of 31
    3 Stars 19 of 24
    2 Stars 5 of 24
    1 Star 0 of 24
    0 Stars 0 of 24
    Bag of ..... 0 of 24

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.