Permit to Åsgård

3 Stars
 7

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The line is up the huge pillar in approximately 14 pitches. The stances are bolted for abseil which helps indicate the line. Here is the rough description that we have:
"Climb 50m to a grass ledge, then on up steeper rock (grades 3 and 4). Grooves lead rightward (10-15m) then move left to cracks leading to a grass ledge. Traverse this and continue left (bolts) to below a roof, crossing a friction slab after 30m. The following pitches are of escalating difficulty. The last ones are 3 and 4."
FA. Holger Jantsch, Ole Klingeman, Eggert Keller 7.1997 The stances were bolted top-down despite the local ethic.

USER COMMENTS

Rob Lamey
roblamey@hotmail.co.uk

Top quality route, a must adventure up the most striking pillar in the valley!
made a repeat (2nd ascent?) of permit to asgard. the route is 16 pitches long, the first 2 can be soloed. the belays that were bolted on abseil are in a reasonable condition, the tat on some needs replacing or just removing completely, and most can be backed up with good protection. the topo in the guide is incorrect in places and common sense is needed whilst route finding (i.e. easiest line of resistence/obvious line etc). the belays are generally easy to find with most being directly above the last.

the belay on pitch 4 (grass ledge traverse) was not located so pitch 4 and 5 were done in one big 55m pitch (carefull ropework required).
pitch 5 (n7) is the definite crux which has 5 bolts, on this pitch do not pull through the roof/overlap, as on topo, continue rightwards around the overlap which loops round.
above this pitch there is nothing above 6+ unless you go wrong, one pitch high up the topo says to cross through a roof which we did at about E6 6a, scary! the route here i imagine heads out right up the rib?
the long straight crack pitch is very overgrown but climbable with a bit of gardening.

the last few pitches are a bit rambling and we lost the bolted belays at this point but the climbing is generally easy and there are good belays everywhere.

Descent: I would not recommend abseiling off! we walked down as described in the guidebook which was absolutely fine, no abseiling required, the section to get to the gully was done barefoot on great deep spongy grass! approx 1hr.
rob - 27/Jul/13

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