Route Grade Votings
The huge central groove is reached from the start of the previous route and followed in approximately 15 pitches.</br>"Climb the pillar to a grass ledge as for the last route (50m) then traverse right 3-4 pitches to old bolts. Friction up and right (2 pitches - wet streaks) into the base of the huge groove. The lower section of this gives good climbing (4/5) but higher up there is dampness, vegetation and loose rock"
This route - or a variation of it - was climbed by Svein Smelvær and Bjørn Hanche-Olsen in 1972, 25 years before Jantsch, Klingeman and Keller. According to Svein, it had probably been climbed even before this by some UK climbers. Svein confirms that the climbing in the corner was rather grotty, so they deviated right some way up there and found reasonably good climbing towards the ridge on the right hand side of the corner. He says the climbing was none too difficult, mostly around grade 4 - though he does remember the initial slab traverse as somewhat trickier.