Route Grade Votings
The natural line of the slab is bold and has a rather scrappy upper section, though there is also plenty of good climbing. Start at the toe of the buttress on top of a fallen flake. A much more amenable outing than its near neighbour. The upper section is very foreshortened - grass/heather/juniper scrambling leads to the top ledge.</br>1) 4+, 35m. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in a shallow corner - old bolt and nut belays.</br>2) 4+, 35m. Keep in the same line to a loose flake then traverse left to a belay at the base of a crack up the right-hand side of a huge flake.</br>3) 5-, 50m. Climb the crack, past an old bolt, to its end then continue in the same line to a stance at the base of The Webster Arch - a large left-trending overlap.</br>4) 5, 45m. Climb the slab on the right to a stance. Alternately layback the flake (worth 5+ and watch the rope-work) then move right at its top to a stance.</br>5) 5-, 40m. Follow flakes and grooves (some grass) rightwards to a stance.</br>6) 4, 45m. Continue in the same line to a small stance at a white flake.</br>7) 5, 45m. A friction slab leads to an overlap and above this things ease. Continue to ledges.</br>8) 3, 50m. Easy climbing leads up a dyke to the ledges above the slab.
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A pleasant route. The old bolts are just single 8mm. Take some tat and spare nuts for abseiling off.
A few things to say. It is pretty bold, but apart from pitch 7 not desperatly so. Pitch 4 the webster arch is very good. Pitch 7 is probably the boldest and most insecure pitch, it is also difficult to tell if you are on route. As for it easing above the overlap, well we didn't think so. To get off, we thought the bolts looked pretty shoddy and so followed the descent in the guidebook.
Would agree with comment No2. Overall feeling is fluttery alright, but great friction, good belay points and overall a nice climb (better I am sure second time around)Pitch 7 is sparse on gear with a diffucult move or two to become established on the small slopy holds on the ripply seam, no problem elsewhere but at 200m it is a different story. Upper section is steeper and scrappy and very fore shortened, with grass/heather/juniper to compete with. We also came down the gully on the LHS as looking at the crag (cross the stream, keep going to you see the slings on a birch tree). You do not really need to ab down the gully. Only one short steep section
I agree with the comments above. The two final pitches were bold and quite hard, especially pitch 7. I suggest the technical grade on the final two pitches should be higher than the first two pitches, which I was able to climb in trainers. To get to the easy descent gully go left along the vegetated ledge (facing the crag). You have to go down and then back up to get to the top of the descent.
I just want to add some usefull information. There is a tunnel under the cliff. The road you can see in the picture in the guide is closed for cars coming from the south. We used just two abseils down the gully, the uper one from a smal tree 60m deeper is a two bolt and chain anchor.