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140m. Named after a mythical monster that protects the human race from the outside world. Start under a left-facing series of flakes to the left of a vertically cracked wall.
1) 6+, 35m. Climb the flakes for 10m then swing right across the wall (bold) and head into the left-facing groove. At its top, where things blank out, pull out right then up to belay at the base of a huge left-facing groove.
2) 6+, 25m. A tricky start gains the groove which is climbed to a belay on the right, at the left-hand end of a long grass ledge.
3) 6+, 20m.
Step into the groove and jam up to the overhang.Pull left around this (exposed) to reach a thin crack. Up this to a stance in a bay.
4) 3, 60m. Climb out of the bay via its left-hand corner, then scramble diagonally rightwards to a belay on a large block.
Descent - Head out to the right and descent grass slopes back to the base of the cliff.
FA. Andy Perkins