Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 5
Makes the most of the right-hand side of the cliff.</br>1) 5- 30m. Climb the near-parallel finger-cracks as for Pizzatyven to the big ledge then walk left across the grassy ledge to a belay under the right arete of the big slab.</br>2) 5-, 40m. Start up the crack system on the right side of the bottom slab (still the same as Pizzatyven) and continue until the chimney on the right can be gained. Follow this chimney for 20m, passing some overhangs to reach a small ledge.</br>3) 5+, 15m. A short steep groove with a leftwards exit completes the route.
This is actually a really good route. The second pitch is awesome, three stars in my book. The first and last not quite as classic, a total of two stars should be about right. The grades are wrong, pitch grades are more like 5-, 6- and 5-... I doubt the described line is the original line though...
I agree with the above comment: the second pitch is the hardest but the best on this route. The third pitch can be climbed along Pizzatyven's last pitch as well.
You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of the Maurpillaren. It's grade 5+ climbing at most. Three pitches and some scrambling in the end.