Zero Option

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
 7c+

Adjacent Routes
<< Biological Need < The Yorkshire Ripper  |  Soft Option > Massala Martyr >>

20m. Regearing has made this virtually a clip-up. The climbing is also much harder since the filling in of a chipped hold at the top of the ramp. Climb up to the ramp and follow it to its apex. Step right to pockets on the wall then move up right to easier ground (good large nut out right). Move back left to a lower-off.
FA. Pete Gomersall 1984. The route name refers to the first ascensionist's feelings about the use of chipped holds. Since filled in and reclimbed and regraded.

USER COMMENTS

Since the so called "chipped" hold was filled in, the move right at the top of the ramp is now much harder than the original.
Also route of historical interest: one of the first, if not the first, non aid climbing bolts placed on kilnsey.
Powis - 09/Aug/01

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