Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
A fine climb with three very difficult sections including the crux of Zero Option. Start up the rib right of Zero Option climb its central section and then finish direct.
Surely the route should be described as it was originally done, and given 8a+. This finish is not only better and makes the route a fantastic sustained outing, but is also the more obvious way to go, eliminating the side step and general avoidance tactics of zero option! I also presume that the original makes the awful mantle type thing to finish (a real red-point heartbreaker!), which means ignoring the jugs just a foot to the right. Also, the jug at the end of the first little steep section desperately needs glueing back in place. I shall endeavour to do it myself, but having had no experience of this type of thing would be grateful for any advice. Or if anyone's at the crag with some sika and fancies a bit of public service, it would be much appreciated.
I've replaced the original belay, so there's no excuse for not finishing straight up. Ignoring the jugs to the right might be a bit too eliminate though.
sorry to keep going on...it must be 8a, and not 8a+. i've been trying grooved arete, and it makes soft option look like the proverbial garden path. (not sure which proverb). so there.
Public service complete.. Jug glued back on! There were more holds on the top section when Horrocks did the route, therefore an easier proposition. Had there not been there's no way Horrocks would have omitted a jug like that!