Pianohandler Lunds drøm

1 Stars
 5+

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<< Svaclownen < Dagens rett  |  Sterk, Naken og Bil tyvene > Pianohandler Lunds rute >>


75m. (Piano Dealer Lundís Dream) Not as popular an outing as Pianohandler Lunds rute, but with some worthwhile and interesting climbing. Start on a ledge at the top of a steep approach trail about 50 metres to the left of the two telephone poles.
1) 5+, 35m. Climb a grassy V-groove/corner up to below the slanting overhang at the top of the corner. Step right into a thin crack in the wall (or step right earlier) and move up awkwardly (5+) onto a sloping ledge. Belay here (25m), or continue up steep cracks on the right (5), step right again, and head up another short crack to a belay ledge on the prow of the buttress. A more direct version is loose and not recommended.
2) 5+, 25m. Traverse right across a slab and climb a short awkward groove to a good ledge. A short crack and corner reaches another spacious ledge.
3) 2, 15m. Climb easy cracks to the top.
FA. Sjur Nesheim and Kjell Ove Storvik 7.1979

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