Pianohandler Lunds rute Top 50

3 Stars
 4+

Adjacent Routes
<< Pianohandler Lunds drøm < Sterk, Naken og Bil tyvene  |  Pianisten > Kangshungrisset >>


100m. Nice climbing with commodious stances. Start by the twin telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting groove.
1) 4, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge on the right. The steep cracks 10m to the right give a harder but rarely repeated variation start (6).
2) 4+, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the hand-traverse. Up this to another big ledge with assorted belays.
3) 4+, 20m. Traverse right along a fault and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Go up this and a short jamming crack above to a good ledge. A great pitch.
4) 4+, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (crux - at least 5 if you can't jam) to a big ledge system below the final tier.
5) 4+, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The awkward finger and hand-crack on the left gives an alternative finish - 4+.
FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz made the first ascent of Lofotenís most popular easy route in 1971 whilst looking for routes for students from the Nord Norsk Klatreskole. The route name, suggested by one of the students, honours a popular comic character from an early 70s radio show. FA. (Variation to Pitch 1) Knut Storvik, Andreas Christiansen 1999

USER COMMENTS

A great route, well worth doing. You may want to abseil back down from the top of light and shadow if you know where the rap station is, but check there is nobody on it first!
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

Lead this July 08. Was not that impressed (top 50?). A patchy climb. Worth doing as an intro, the crux moves (two sets)were out of charatcer with the rest of the route. You could drop the 3rd pitch altogether. The descent down the wide gully is steep & earthy but no problem. The neighbouring no-star Pettersen's Ridge (N4) is much more worthy. 300m long with a bit of everything including views and a walk out descent.
Superterence - 29/Jul/08

Nice climbing but a bit broken for 3 stars. Description a little deceptive even if it's hard to go wrong. Short jamming crack at end of P3 is tough for 4+. Pitch 4 is a flake crack and not jamming - it's also stiff for 4+.
steve culverhouse - 19/Aug/08

Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 is a bit tricky and pitch 4 is certainly worth n5 and is a jaminng crack. Presume Steve took the wrong line. The crack goes straight up from the belay and not the left hand crack
Conan Harrod - 26/Jul/11

Very good climbing for the grade, but to crowded. Best done at midnight.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard 5- 0 of 6
    5- 0 of 6
    easy 5- 3 of 6
    hard 4+ 3 of 6
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    easy 4+ 0 of 6
    hard0 of 6
    0 of 6
    easy0 of 6
    3 Stars 5 of 7
    2 Stars 2 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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