Soria Moria Top 50

2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 7+

Adjacent Routes
<< Applecake Arete < Lys og skygge  |  Nye tider > Kongens hjørne >>


65m. A difficult climb up the prominent right-trending groove. Originally a hard aid route and now a harder free one.
1) 7, 30m. Climb the start of Lys og skygge but where it sneaks off left, climb for 10m to a small stance with a bolt belay.
2) 7+, 35m. Sustained and hard climbing follows the thin cracks up the large right-leaning groove all the way to the top.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen (aid) 3.1993 FFA. Linus Kullstad late 1990s

USER COMMENTS

I would not trust the bolted belay if it hasn't been rebolted since summer 07. It is possible to get a decent belay a few meters down from the bolts, using a good nut, backed up by the bolts.
This is one of the coolest climbs on Lofoten.
Gustaf Leijonhufvud - 24/Apr/08

This one seems to loose its pitons quite rapidly. My partner pulled one of the remaining pitons in beginning of July. We bailed.
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 4
    hard 8- 0 of 2
    8- 0 of 2
    easy 8- 1 of 2
    hard 7+ 0 of 2
    7+ 1 of 2
    easy 7+ 0 of 2
    hard0 of 2
    0 of 2
    easy0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.