Solens sønner Top 50
<< Mr Hyde < Ørnens brødre | Månens døtre > Skåningen >>
135m. (Sons of the Sun) A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger-cracks makes this a route not to miss - one of Lofoten’s best climbs of the grade. It follows the thin vertical cracks up the left side of Sjøsvaet. Carry a modern rack, including small and medium sized cams, double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse on Pitch 2, and for the descent.
1) 5+, 35m. This pitch is better than it looks. From the starting ledge, move left into the base into a grassy groove system. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney behind this block, then from its top, make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.
2) 6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down five metres and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent vertical finger-crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double-bolt anchor.
3) 5, 30m. Climb the finger-crack up the left-hand side of the upper slab. When it ends, continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single bolt anchor - and a steady supply of fresh drinking water on the left.
4) 5, 20m. Friction up the shoulder (bolt) then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double-bolt belay.
FA. Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 16.8.1993. On their 3rd attempt.
Pitch one is pretty dirty and not better than it looks! Pitch two is hard and a bit bold (E3 5c) but good and the top two pitches are ok but a bit samey - pad up the run out slab etc...Overall not as classic as it sounds...
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08
Pitch 2 is the meat of the route .. I wouldn't argue with E3.
tobyfk - 13/Mar/08
The climbers in the big photo in the book are Matthias Feind and Helmut Steigner (Germany).
Chris Craggs - 08/Jul/08
The ab off is dodgier than the book implies. From the top double-bolt belay it is at least 53m to the double-bolt belay 2 pitches below at the top of P2 - rope stretch on 50m ropes is NOT sufficient. We ended up faffing with extra slings on the end of the ropes - mildly dodgy. The alternative is to abseil to the top of pitch 3 (single bolt and some rubbish tat) and from there to the top of P2. The remaining abs are straightforward.
steve culverhouse - 19/Aug/08
Pitch 1 not so great, but pitch 2 is awesome, and I think well protected. Pitches 3 & 4 are easier, but with poor protection. The ab off is super easy...just ab the route!
Jim - 17/Jul/10
Agree with Jim. With 60m ropes, you can manage the descent in two rappels.
Not Top50 in my opinion.
Urs Odermatt - 14/Jul/14
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