Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
(Sons of the Sun) A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger-cracks makes this a route not to miss - one of Lofoten's best climbs at the grade. It follows the thin vertical cracks up the left side of Sjøsvaet. Carry a modern rack, including small and medium sized cams. Double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse on pitch 2, and for the descent.</br>1) 5+, 35m. This pitch is better than it looks. From the starting ledge, move left into the base of a grassy groove system. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney behind this block, then from its top, make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.</br>2) 6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down 5m and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent finger-crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double-bolt anchor.</br>3) 5, 30m. Climb the finger-crack up the left-hand side of the upper slab. When it ends, continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single bolt anchor - and a steady supply of fresh drinking water on the left.</br>4) 5, 20m. Move up the shoulder (bolt) then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double-bolt belay.
Pitch one is pretty dirty and not better than it looks! Pitch two is hard and a bit bold (E3 5c) but good and the top two pitches are ok but a bit samey - pad up the run out slab etc...Overall not as classic as it sounds...
Pitch 2 is the meat of the route .. I wouldn't argue with E3.
The climbers in the big photo in the book are Matthias Feind and Helmut Steigner (Germany).
The ab off is dodgier than the book implies. From the top double-bolt belay it is at least 53m to the double-bolt belay 2 pitches below at the top of P2 - rope stretch on 50m ropes is NOT sufficient. We ended up faffing with extra slings on the end of the ropes - mildly dodgy. The alternative is to abseil to the top of pitch 3 (single bolt and some rubbish tat) and from there to the top of P2. The remaining abs are straightforward.
Pitch 1 not so great, but pitch 2 is awesome, and I think well protected. Pitches 3 & 4 are easier, but with poor protection. The ab off is super easy...just ab the route!
Agree with Jim. With 60m ropes, you can manage the descent in two rappels.