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A route that covers some of the same ground as Coley Smoke albeit in a more direct version. Start at a large finger-shaped boulder at ground level, below a scooped boulder with three grooves in its top half.</br>1) 5, 25m. Climb the centre of the scoop and exit via the middle one of the three grooves. Continue up easy slabs to a spike belay below the main crack.</br>2) 5, 30m. Climb steeply up the jagged crack then, when the angle eases, step right into a left-slanting groove. Up this as it steepens into a blind layback crack then, where this ends, step right and belay a little higher below some loose blocks.</br>3) 5+, 40m. Move left for 5m over the loose blocks (care needed) to gain the main corner. Follow this past a roof to where it steepens. Pass the steepening with difficulty then belay in the base of the chimney above.</br>4) 5-, 30m. As for Coley Smoke.
FA. Michael Hayes, Graham Weston 8.8.2001