Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
236m. (Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is hugely popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty, obviously it refers to the actual climb and not the walk in.</br>1) 4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow left-facing corner. Up this, or climb a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.</br>2) 5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.</br>3) 5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into another crack. Climb up this to a good belay at flakes and a ledge.</br>4) 5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.</br>5) 5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake. </br>6) 5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.</br>7) 4-, 50m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab to reach a belay at the base of the cliff's steeper headwall. Beware of loose rock on this final pitch and the fact there will be climbers below.
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A great route. The walk in is not bad if you don't get lost - there is a small path all the way, but people do miss it. Take water - we were therein midsummer and some parties turned back because of the heat.
Brilliant climbing, take your towel to cool of in the Fjord. Beware when you rap off. Some folk get their ropes stuck in the really wide chimney.
Fantastic route with great climbing. Pitch 5 being my favourite pitch climbed in a 2 week trip. The top pitch must be more then 36m, our 50m ropes were only just enough, although we didn't take the most direct line.
1. The last pitch is about 50m to the anchor.
The approach takes average 90minutes. The update has a new descent described, it's good.
Every route in the guide assumes that you have 2x60 meter ropes. In that case you can rap off Bara Blåbär with 3-4 absails.
Usually, the local guides ar coming here with their groupes on Thursday. Maybe better to plan another day or even to ask in the office. Its a pretty long approach to see that your number 12 in the line.
The advice on abseiling, both in the guide and the update, is out of date. The best way is (from the top): one abseil to the previous stance, a second abseil to bolts/chains further right (looking in) of the stance at the end of pitch 5; then 3 further abseils directly down well to the right (looking in) of the route. This is all equipped with bolts/chains and 50-m ropes are fine. Mega-classic route, a must-do.
Incredible route and beautiful view.
Length for pitch 2 is incorrect. Its more like 23m than 34m