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240m. This is the parallel crack system between Bare blåbær and the Black Arch. It features some excellent hand-jamming, but there is also a difficult thin crack, plus a long unprotected off-width pitch. Carry tiny wires and a good selection of cams.
1) 4, 26m. Climb the first short pitch of Bare blåbær.
2) 6, 44m. Jam up the finger-crack at the start of Bare blåbær Pitch 2, then traverse right across the face into a thin crack. Climb this then make a hard traverse into the perfect hand-crack on the right. Take a semi-hanging belay here.
3) 6, 50m. Continue up the superb crack system which starts as a hand-crack then slowly becomes thinner until it narrows to just a thin seam just above the Black Arch. Make off-balance jamming moves up the thin crack to the bolted belay at the top of Pitch 4 of Bare blåbær, or in the cracks just below this.
4) 4+, 45m. A long and unprotected off-width leads up the left side of the huge, detached flake above. Belay at the top of the flake. Abseil from the bolts over to the left or 5) and 6) Finish up Bare blåbær.
FA. The middle section of the route (the traverse and hand-crack) was first climbed by Odd-Roar Wiik, Jørgen Sundby and Borghild Hansen in July 1989. Thorbjørn Enevold, Per Kylner and Jenny Gustavsson made the first complete ascent of the route as described on 8.7.1993
Pitch 2 is well protected with small cams, and the second can be well protected by placing a high piece in the crack above the belay. Pitch 3 is stellar, and made easier by stemming into the great arch!
Jim - 17/Jul/10
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