Claws

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Wall < White Rushin'  |  The Diedre > Dominatrix >>


A classic historical product. "... I decided to put three or four holds in a line on the top pitch which made it exactly the same grade as the rest of the route." - Pete Livesey, OTE 35.
1) 6a Start up The Diedre then traverse left to a short leftwards facing corner. Climb up this then trend left to wide corner and easy ground. Belay on the ledge on the right.
2) 6a Climb up to a bush in the roof, step left into the scoop (peg missing at time of publication). Follow the scoop past Livesey's famous holds to the upper break. Swing left for 3m then pull up another scoop to the top.
FA. Pete Livesey, J.Lawrence 1976

USER COMMENTS

when i was on this (late nineties) the peg was missing, at the top of the scoop, on the 2nd pitch...
steve delderfield - 05/Mar/02

I know the pegs' missing,during Aug 92 i was the one that had the misfortune to fall when it ripped. The unfortunate thing was the peg then hit me on the head fracturing my skull,and a spell in intensive care for a few days.Not been back on the route since, but i've got the peg if anyones interested in replacing it.
Alan Firth - 28/Jul/03

ouch, that must have been a painful fall

i seem to remember getting perhaps a rock 5 at the bottom of the scoop

it just made those moves to leave the scoop a tad more exciting but i don't think the peg being missing would change the grade
paul hesketh - 29/Jul/03

Pitch 2. Removed as much of the bush as I could and replaced the thread just above it. Feels much safer now.
GeoffG - 08/Sep/05

Bush grown back with a vengance. A bit of a scrap to find the thread and holds, but not too much of a prob. Thread in very good nick. Where did the peg used to be? just before the crux moves leaving the top of the scopp? bomber nuts there, so no need to replace it. Amazing route.
Ged Desforges - 07/Aug/06

yeah i got the impression the peg used to be 2/3's the way up the scoop
ste_d - 13/Apr/07

Clean and chalked
Adam Lincoln - 14/Jul/10

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