Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 42
The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. A couple of pieces of gear are needed at the start. The pull leftwards into the steep crack above the first overhang is difficult but the final lurch over the roof to gain the lower-off is the crux.
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One of the best routes I've done, on a par with comedy! Bold in places but not gripping. Low in the grade, just don't cock it up above the top roof!
Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?
It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket!
Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)
A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out.
The bolting as it presently stands is in keeping with the original caracter of the route.
Cement cracking around many of the glue-ins makes it quite unnerving at times - some folk are putting an 8ft sling on the rusty old bolt 1m right of the 4th clip just to back it up - seems sensible being that if this failed u may be on the floor.