<< Himmel og Helvete < To krigere | Ypperstepresten > Biskopen >>
386m. (The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows the long loose corner system. Carry a full rack up to and including a large cam. Begin up a pale right-facing 20m high groove below and left of the Great Roof.
1) 6, 36m. An excellent pitch. Climb the corner to its top, then move left across a slab to a belay on a grass ledge.
2) 5, 40m. Traverse up and left then follow a prominent right-facing dihedral to a ledge on the left at its top.
3) 6, 40m. Climb a superb hand-crack. When it ends, climb right to a tiny belay ledge at the bottom of another corner.
4) 5, 30m. Climb up the corner to the left-hand end of Storhylla - the big grass ledge.
5) 6-, 35m. Traverse down and left (poor protection) then move up and left again, entering a right-facing corner from the side. Climb up this to a small ledge and bolt belay.
6) 7, 35m. A hard pitch but with good protection. Start up the shallow corners then step right to reach the first bolt.
Climb straight up past two more bolts, then up and right to reach the crack in the overhang above. Head left from the roof across a difficult traverse into a groove. Belay higher in the groove.
7) 6+, 35m. Move slightly left, then climb up the sparsely protected face for 5m to reach good cracks and grooves which lead to a ledge with loose blocks.
8) 5+, 35m. Traverse left to reach the base of a right-leaning groove. Follow this for 10m up into a short chimney, then continue up the Exit Groove - the prominent final groove.
9 to 11) 100m. Climb the groove, with some loose rock and grass, to the top. Pitch 11 in particular is extremely loose.
FA. The first ascent of To Krigere by Sjur Nesheim and Yngvar Julin in 1981 included Pitches 8 to 11 for the first time. A similar line to today’s Pitches 1 to 4 was first climbed by Håvard Nesheim and Tom Pedersen in 1979, but they finished up Vestpillaren. In 1980, Sjur Nesheim and Kjell Skog descended from the top of Pitch 5 without bolting the crux slab. Bengt Flygel Nilsfors and Odd-Roar Wiik then added the necessary bolts and linked the complete free first ascent together, on their fifth attempt, in August 1992.
The first four pitches are awesome, and make a great outing, and are well protected.
Jim - 17/Jul/10
An excellent link-up (with a 7- crux) is the first 4 pitches of Korståget (to Storhylla), then the 4 pitches of Klokkern and the last 4 of Vestpillaren.
Rick McGregor - 29/Jul/10
Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dramatically.
Jonas Wiklund - 04/Aug/10
On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than "up and right". NB: At present (June 2012) there is only one belay bolt at the start of this pitch and not a whole lot of solid placements to back it up with.
Found the pitches up the Exit Groove better than expected. Nothing significantly loose and no grass on pitch 9, little of either on pitch 10 (both have climbing up to grade 5) and some hollow-sounding blocks but nothing dangerously loose on pitch 11.
Rick McGregor - 26/Jun/12
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments