Route Grade Votings
(Original Finish) On the first ascent of Vestpillaren the team were attracted to the fine leaning grooves in the crest of the pillar. 9) 6-, 40m. Traverse left across a face for 5m, then move down and left under an overhang. Climb through this and follow cracks and flakes for 25m to a belay ledge. 10) 4+, 45m. From the right end of the ledge, follow the grooves and cracks rightwards up broken terrain to a ledge. 11) 7, 35m. Traverse left to gain the large right-slanting groove. Climb the strenuous corner to a sloping stance. 12) 7-, 35m. Continue to, and past, a bulge in the upper part of the groove then climb thin cracks until it is possible to move left to the finish. Belay on a good ledge, then scramble up to the top.
Pitch 9 is probably a grade or two harder (6 or 6+) than stated, especially if you don't find the secret jug! This pitch can be used to avoid the "not obvious and poorly protected" pitch 7 (6+) of Himmelen kan vente.