Himmelen kan vente
<< Vestpillaren Original Start < Originalavslutning | Variasjon til en variasjon > Klokkern >>
(Heaven Can Wait) The route is not entirely new, the lower section uses some pitches that have been done before. A large cam or two will come in useful.
1) 4+, 25m. As for pitch 1 of the Original Start (page §§§) but move up to a stance at the foot of a left-trending groove.
2) 6+ (or A0), 50m. Traverse left to reach the long cracks and climb this - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right with a quick pull on a nut. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.
5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.
7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and climb this diagonally leftwards (not obvious and poorly protected) to a small stance.
8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
FA. (Pitches 2 and 3) Helge Stokstad and Harald Henden climbed the initial crack system (plus the Slanting Groove pitch of the Vestpillaren) in 1982. The whole route as described, with the exciting finish - Patrik Fransson, Thorbjørn Enevold 15.6.1997
This route is well worth climbing. As good as "Vestpillaren" but with considerable less traffic. The line is a bit unclear at the start, but the wide crack (takes cam#4 and has a chock-stone somewhere in the middle) on the second pitch is clearly visible from below. Just head for this crack. Pitch 7 has good pro on the hard bit. The last two pitches are very nice: a good find!
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09
I agree - an excellent route!
- The righthand flake crack finish to pitch 2 goes free at about 6+ or 7- (a little committing).
- The "not obvious and poorly protected" pitch 7 (6+) can be circumnavigated by using pitch 9 of Originalavslutning, but note that it is probably a grade or two harder (6 or 6+) than the stated grade (6-), especially if you don't find the secret jug!
- Rope-drag can be a (big) problem on the last pitch.
Rick McGregor - 29/Jul/10
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