Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. </br>1) 4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Original starten but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.</br>2) 6+, 40m. Climb the crack - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above. </br>3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.</br>4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right-leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.</br>5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner on The Codfather almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.</br>6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.</br>7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and round the left end of the small roof/overlap and then further left to a right-leaning crack (almost reaching the line of Vestpillaren original finish)</br>8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall. </br>9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
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This route is well worth climbing. As good as "Vestpillaren" but with considerable less traffic. The line is a bit unclear at the start, but the wide crack (takes cam#4 and has a chock-stone somewhere in the middle) on the second pitch is clearly visible from below. Just head for this crack. Pitch 7 has good pro on the hard bit. The last two pitches are very nice: a good find!
I agree - an excellent route!
Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct.