Gamle rev Top 50

3 Stars
Crimpy
 6

Adjacent Routes
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95m. (Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming. Popular and worthwhile. Start below a black slab (sometimes wet) below the main corner. Photo on pages 12 and 161. 1) 6, 45m. Climb easily to the base of the groove, then layback and jam up the corner until a harder move leads leftwards at the top into easier cracks and a corner. Belay on a ledge on the left. 2) 6-, 50m. Continue up a groove with a hand-crack to a grassy ramp, then climb a short awkward finger-crack on the right to another ledge. Finish up an unlikely looking thin finger-crack up the steep wall above to jugs and an easy finish. 2a) 7, 20m. Revungen (Fox Club) Step right from the stance and climb the thin cracks right of the arete - tiny wires protect the run-out up the slab above - scary! Take a belay then add another pitch up the rest of Gamle Rev.
FA. Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold 25.7.1993 FA. (Revungen) Asgeir Larsen, Jonatan Rask 6.2007

USER COMMENTS

Easy for grade 6, only got one thin move and then it's all over, much easier than Vestpillaren and Solens Sonner for instance...
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

Pretty steady bridgeing and not as tough as it looks. Only just E1, maybe HVS in UK money.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

find the second pitch harder, or more delicate. But good climbing.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun.
Andy Hobson - 13/Jul/12

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