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100m. An excellent and well protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Almost as good as its classy neighbour.
1) 5, 40m. From the tip of a block jam up the fine crack, stepping left once, and continuing to a sloping stance.
2) 5-, 35m. Continue up the same crack past a ledge to a short slab. Climb the slab, then move up thin cracks in the steeper wall above, on good holds, to a good sloping stance.
3) 5-, 25m. Step right, then climb the right side of a prominent flake (shared with Tromsø ekspressen) but move right to easier cracks and the top.
FA. Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim 1985
Reminiscent of the very best of Chairladder VSs.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08
Felt more like 5-,5-,5-, still a great route though.
Chris Craggs - 30/May/08
Thought 5 was fair enough for the first pitch.
Gets a lot less traffic then Gandalf just to the right - we saw 4 parties queued up on Gandalf whilst we had Gollum to ourselves!
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08
Maybe even better the Gandalf
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
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