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100m. (Gandalf’s Chimney) A more strenuous and awkward finish to Gandalf.
1) 5, 40m. As for Gandalf or Gollum (or use Lost Gandalf and traverse right if the other lines are busy).
2) 4, 20m. Climb up and left up a knobby slab about 5m left of the Gandalf's overhang. From a ledge, climb a corner on the left, then climb up to a grass ledge below an orange chimney.
3) 5-, 50m. Squeeze up through the chimney to an exit on large holds, then follow the awkward crack above to a sloping ledge on the right. Move up left and finish up Gollum.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Kjell-Arne Andreassen 5.1989
It is more of a groove than a chimney and getting into it is a bit of a pig. Easier once established.
Chris Craggs - 11/Jun/08
Just wondering if the rout is 5+, or just a 5 ?
Iselin - 15/Jun/09
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