Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches, each interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face.</br>1) 5, 40m. Climb the narrow groove, passing a small overhang, then continue up a short slab to stance by a good crack. Avoid belaying on the loose blocks over to the right.</br>2) 5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right, climb the juggy overhang and awkward groove just to the right. Continue past a possible stance below the steep headwall split by a vertical crack. Cross the tricky slab leftwards and pass the arete, then climb up good finger-cracks to a belay in the prominent yellow niche of the Eagle's Nest. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch.</br>4) 5-, 25m. From the Eagle's Nest, step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top.</br>4a) 6+ 25m. The original (and much harder) finish goes straight through the lip of the Eagle's Nest via a strenuous jamming crack.
Feels like a Lakeland or Welsh classic.
An excellent VS. Close your eyes and you could be at Bosigran ! Watch which way you go up the slab on pitch 1. It is easy to wander too far right if my memory serves.
A great test of your jamming.
First pitch felt quite hard today - that's what you get for repeating routes!
The original finish (straight up from the Eagle's Nest) is quite fun - probably only grade 6.
nice and very easy
The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Guns'n Roses. The next time I will read the guide book properly.