Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb, you will just have to do it so you can join in!</br>1) 5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight up over a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now! </br>2) 6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.</br>3) 6-, 35m. Continue directly up a series of vertical finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just to the right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack just to the right of</br>Gandalf's final section.
Very short hard section on pitch 2, top pitch is easier and overall one of the easier 6- routes.
A bit contrived and disjointed, I thought, to maintain the climbing on the most interesting rock. The moves up to and up the arete on pitch 1 are excellent, though. Easy HVS.
Kind of agree with both comments. The moves on the arete are great, but a fierce bit of jamming at the top of pitch 2.
I thought it 'only' two stars, though Thorbjørn as absolutely adamant it is worth three!
Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good.
it felt quiet polished already....