| 8- A2|
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A spectacular and hard outing that breaches the roofs on the upper right-hand side of the cliff by some wild climbing. Start at the base of the gully that defines the right-hand side of the cliff.</br>1) 4+, 45m. Climb the clean white slabs left of the streaks into a corner and continue to a niche with a high peg belay.</br>2) 3, 40m. Continue up the gully for 10m until a grassy ramp runs out to the left onto the crest of the buttress. Follow this up and down to a belay on spikes.</br>3) 6-, 30m. Climb a series of flakes and cracks, with harder moves where it steepens, to reach a small stance and nut belays.</br>4) 8-, 30m. Now the fun begins! Climb up to the roof and bridge past its narrowest point. Follow an undercut flake out left, passing a couple of grooves, to a point below the crack that splits the roof. Difficult moves up to the roof lead to a good hold out left then hard pulls on thin flakes are needed to gain a belay in a crack above the overhang.</br>5) 7- A2, 20m. Start free as far as a small sidepull. Then, when the crack becomes too thin, aid up it to a groove and climb this to reach bolt belays in the roof above the ledge. Walk off left.
FA. Robin Thomas, Andrew Norton 18.7.2004