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3 Stars
Pumpy
 6

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90m. (The Puffin Club) A great classic, very popular with varied and sustained climbing up the striking right-facing corner and cracks above The Island. Well protected.
1) 6-, 35m. Climb up an easy groove then step right onto a blunt arete. Move right again into a big right-facing corner which is climbed to a good ledge.
2) 6, 35m. Follow the steep corner above, passing the bulge, and continue up a crack until it fades. Move right into another crack which leads to a ledge. Hand traverse 3m left and climb an easier crack to a large sloping ledge.
3) 5+, 20m. Move up and left to another ledge then finish up the zig-zag cracks in the steep slab. Time for the photo!
FA. 'The Old Puffin' and 'The Young Puffin', Arild Meyer and Thorbjørn Enevold, made the first ascent of this fine route in May 1992.

USER COMMENTS

Classic route, first one I did in Lofoten and very impressed - prefect rock and a sensational second pitch. Overall pretty reasonable for grade 6 and tons of gear. Few different variations after the roof, all pretty fun.
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

About E1 5b I reckon, with some stunning scenery and lovely rock. The crux crack is prone to some seepage, More of a slog to get to than it appears from the road !
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Awesome climbing, the second pitch looks harder than it is, but I guess E1 5B is fair. Look out for the surprise, if it is still there and don't forget to immitate the guidebook photo.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

very nice, but not so exciting is other climbs around
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard 6+ 0 of 3
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    6 3 of 3
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