Lundeklubben Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 6

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(The Puffin Club) A great classic, very popular with varied and sustained climbing up the striking right-facing corner and cracks above The Island.</br>1) 6-, 35m. Climb up an easy groove then step right onto a blunt arete. Move right again into a big right-facing corner which is climbed to a good ledge.</br>2) 6, 35m. Follow the steep corner above, passing the bulge, and continue up a crack until it fades. Move right into another crack which leads to a ledge. Hand traverse 3m left and climb</br>an easier crack to a large sloping ledge. The crack contains hidden delights.</br>3) 5+, 20m. Move up and left to another ledge then finish up the zig-zag cracks in the steep slab. Time for the photo!
FA. Arild Meyer (The Old Puffin), Thorbjørn Enevold (The Young Puffin) 5.1992

USER COMMENTS

Classic route, first one I did in Lofoten and very impressed - prefect rock and a sensational second pitch. Overall pretty reasonable for grade 6 and tons of gear. Few different variations after the roof, all pretty fun.
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

About E1 5b I reckon, with some stunning scenery and lovely rock. The crux crack is prone to some seepage, More of a slog to get to than it appears from the road !
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Awesome climbing, the second pitch looks harder than it is, but I guess E1 5B is fair. Look out for the surprise, if it is still there and don't forget to immitate the guidebook photo.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

very nice, but not so exciting is other climbs around
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard 6+ 0 of 3
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