<< Aprilsnarr < Landstrykere | Mordar Anders > Frozen in Time >>
125m. A fine climb up the thin crack system in the steep clean slab on the cliff’s right-hand side. A very full rack is required. Scramble up a right-trending bushy ramp to a good ledge below the initial crack.
1) 5, 30m. Climb up a short wall, then step left into the thin crack which is followed to a good belay ledge.
2) 7-, 35m. Jam up a crack on the right and step left to the base of a classic finger-crack in a steep slab. Climb this straight up (very sustained) until joining a right-trending crack and a troublesome overlap. A difficult final move over this bulge gains a small belay stance.
3) 6+, 30m. Climb straight up another steep vertical crack to easier climbing.
4) 5-, 30m. Follow a finger-crack on the left, then diagonal right up easy slabs. Finish up a short corner on the right to the top.
FA. In 7.1992, Odd-Roar Wiik and partner made the general first ascent of the route, including Pitch 2, where they used 1 point of aid on the crux overlap. Ed Webster and Thorbjørn Enevold made the first free ascent of the route described here on 12.7.1993
An excellent route on clean rock with great sea views. The crux pitch (the 2nd) is probably only 6+ and it is possible to avoid the 6+ on the 3rd pitch by taking an alternative flake/crack on the right (at about 6-). It's also possible to link pitches 2 and 3.
Rick McGregor - 28/Jul/10
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