Pan

2 Stars
Technical
 7-

Adjacent Routes
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125m. A fine climb up the thin crack system in the steep clean slab on the cliff's right-hand side. A very full rack is required for the sustained second pitch. Scramble up a right-trending bushy ramp to a good ledge below the initial crack.</br>1) 5, 30m. Climb up a short wall, then step left into the thin crack which is followed to a good belay ledge.</br>2) 7-, 35m. Jam up a crack on the right and step left to the base of a classic finger-crack in a steep slab. Climb this straight up (very sustained) to a right-trending crack and a troublesome overlap. A difficult final move over this bulge gains a small belay stance.</br>3) 7-, 30m. Climb straight up another steep vertical crack to easier climbing. </br>3) 6-, 30m. The steep vertical (crux) crack can be avoided by climbing the crack on the right (which leads back left to the top of the original crack) at about grade 6-.</br>4) 5-, 30m. Follow a finger-crack on the left, then go diagonally right up easy slabs. Finish up a short corner on the right.
FA. In 7.1992, Odd-Roar Wiik and partner made the general first ascent of the route, including pitch 2, where they used 1 point of aid on the crux overlap. Ed Webster and Thorbjørn Enevold made the first free ascent of the route described here on 12.7.1993

USER COMMENTS

An excellent route on clean rock with great sea views. The crux pitch (the 2nd) is probably only 6+ and it is possible to avoid the 6+ on the 3rd pitch by taking an alternative flake/crack on the right (at about 6-). It's also possible to link pitches 2 and 3.
Rick McGregor - 28/Jul/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 2
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    hard 7- 1 of 1
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    hard 6+ 0 of 1
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    easy 6+ 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 1 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
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