<< Demo Route < Master Class | Vågarisset > None >>
195m. This seldom climbed route has three good crack pitches plus some typical Lofoten terrain. Start about 40m to the left of, and slightly higher than, the base of Vågarisset. </br>1) 5+, 45m. Climb a thin finger-crack through a bulge to reach a slab split by another vertical crack. Belay above on a ledge below some big overhangs.</br>2) 30m. Traverse left below this overhanging section to reach some grassy ledges.</br>3) 6-, 45m. An awkward and strenuous crack leads into a steep, grass-filled chimney. Climb the chimney to a big moss-covered ledge, and move out right to a belay.</br>4) 10m. Continue along the ledge around a block, and belay on</br>top of a block, just below the start of the next crack system.</br>5) 6, 45m. Climb straight up a steep, beautiful finger-crack (5+ A0 with 2 points of aid) which soon eases back and widens before narrowing again just below a big belay ledge. </br>6) 5+, 20m. Walk right for about 5m, then climb a crack straight up to an overhang where the crack widens. Finish up the right-facing corner above.
FA. Arild Meyer, Bjørn Braathen, summer 1982