<< Genus Locy < Søring variant | None > None >>
505m. Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) 4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2-3) 80m. Grade 2 to 3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for 2 rope lengths.
4) 3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the Lunch Ledge below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) 4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) 3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) 3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) 4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) 2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) 4+, 25m. Climb the hand-crack up the slab by jamming and laybacking, to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) 4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards) then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) 2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit.
Descent - Use the standard South Face Route back over the Vågakallen - Kvanndalstinden col, then down to the Djupfjorden parking spot at the fjord entrance where your chariot awaits.
FA. Arne Randers Heen, Lars Nordby 6.1939
A great day out. No wet on pitch 4 (after a long dry spell). The traverse and downclimb can be scary for the second - can be protected if using double rope by leaving one rope free and climbing up and back left to belay. The jump over the gap near the summit is not trivial!
The best starting point to walk in is the top of the pass (as mentioned in the Magic Islands guide). The Henningsvaer - Svolvaer bus goes past the fjord entrance and past the end of the track up to the pass: good if without a car, or to get back to the car.
Steve Lenartowicz - 12/Mar/08
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