Mygga

2 Stars
 5+

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Wee Beastie  |  Storm Pillar > Freya >>


240m. (The Mosquito) Not a real Lofoten classic but this route has a lot of good climbing and is quite popular. Grass and bushes detract a bit from the overall quality.
1) 4+, 45m. Start up a V-groove in the left toe of the pillar. Step left at its top and climb a bit higher to a belay above an overlap on a small ledge with a block.
2) 5-, 40m. Traverse right across the blank slab to a ledge with a fixed nut. Continue up and right across the slab and into a shallow groove with a small stance.
3) 5, 35m. Climb the easy V-groove to another fixed nut, then step left across a short slab into a crack which leads into a groove with small trees and a belay on the right.
4) 4+, 20m. Step right to a layback flake that leads into the V-groove - the route’s major feature - which is capped by a huge bulging chockstone. Continue up the groove, past bushes, to a small belay ledge (peg belay).
5) 5+, 25m. Climb the groove above to the bulge (peg) which requires some tricky bridging. Continue with difficulty up the strenuous corner-crack and belay on a ledge on the left.
6) 5-, 20m. Walk up the grass above, then climb out right around a small roof. Layback up the steep corner forming the right-hand side of the huge jammed chockstone at the top of the main V-groove, to a good stance.
7) 5-, 20m. Follow easier cracks up to another long narrow and comfortable belay ledge. Peg on the right.
8) 5+, 35m. From the left-hand end of the ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack (peg - very exposed) into another crack and climb up to a ledge. Continue up and left, following a higher crack to another good ledge.
9) 2, 30m. Finish left easily into the shrubbery above.
FA. Bo Nyborg Andersen, Sverre Søgaard 6.1974. They managed to drop a bag containing most of their pitons from high on the route. The name MYGGA was given by a later team of climbers.

USER COMMENTS

the return can be done in 3 abseils with double 60m ropes. 1. from the top belay station to below the roof. 2. from under roof to top of pitch 3. 3. from the top of pitch three and diagonally to vegetated gully. left quicklinks or carabiners and new slings on all july 08.
Torbjorn Dahlen - 06/Aug/08

The route was dirty with grass, mud, bushes, loose rock and sand. The first belay station is to the left from the site depicted in the topo guidebook. The 6th and 7th pitches can be easily combined as the 7th is only some 8 meters long traverse. The last (8th) pitch could propably be done in the fine narrow finger crack near the belay but the two wider cracks more to the left are very dirty. We went along the grassy ledges (grade 2).
jukka leinonen - 14/Jun/10

A kind of an adventure climb with some very good climbing as well. 2 Stars are correct, worthwile to climb it, but not brillant. 60m ropes strongly recommended
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

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