Storm Pillar

3 Stars
 7+ A3

Adjacent Routes
<< Wee Beastie < Mygga  |  Freya > The Corner Kick >>

An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on superb rock. Pitch 11 may eventually go free at around 7c+ with pre-placed gear. Gear needed is a set and a half of cams (to 4), a full set of nuts and micro wires, lost arrow and knife-blade plus hooks. The first ascent team thought it would make an awesome candidate for a one day ascent, though the second ascensionists were less sure - portaledges will probably be needed by most teams. Start to the right of the fall-line from the pillar where a white left-trending and left-facing groove offers a way to outflank the huge black overhangs directly under the pillar.</br>See</br>1) 6-, 50m. Climb leftwards up the groove to belay.</br>2) 7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves through the roofs.</br>3) 7, 25m. Head left (bolt) past the base of the long flake/groove system of Freya to a stance beyond it.</br>4) 6-, 30m. Move left and climb a groove to ledges.</br>5) 6+, 40m. Trend left across the slabs to a stance under the big diagonal overhang - serious.</br>6) ?, 30m. Trend up and right to a stance. No grade given.</br>7) 6+, 60m. Break through the overhangs and continue to a stance in the grass fields above.</br>8) 6-, 45m. Continue up the rocky buttress above to reach ledges at the First Bivi-site.</br>9) 7, 55m. Cross the gully then climb the steep groove to the base of the soaring corner above.</br>10) 7+, 55m. The fantastic overhanging corner gives a magnificent pitch.</br>11) 7, 50m. Continue up the black corner to the Second Bivi-site on a stance at the base of a steep crack.</br>12) A3, 55m. Aid climb the steep crack in the smooth steep wall, with some hard free moves in the middle of the pitch.</br>13) 6+ A1, 35m. Climb over a roof and on to a stance below the 'Fab Flake'.</br>14) 6+, 50m. The Fab Flake is followed out right then back left to a stance in the base of a long groove.</br>15) 6+, 45m. The groove leads to the base of a huge square block perched on the wall.</br>16) 6+, 30m. The 'Tunnel Pitch' heads behind the huge block. The top of this was the Third Bivi-site.</br>17) 6- A2, 55m. Aid up the crack then free climb to a stance by a big block.</br>18) 6, 60m. Climb right then left, past a roof, then move back right and climb to the point where Storpillaren comes in from the right.</br>Descent - Follow Storpillaren to the summit, or descend by abseil.
FA. Mike 'Twid' Turner, Louise Thomas 9.2003


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