Freya

3 Stars
Technical
Strong
 8 A3+

Adjacent Routes
<< Mygga < Storm Pillar  |  The Corner Kick > Storpillaren >>


800m. A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. The climbing is mainly free with bold climbing on the lower walls and some super-sustained cracks in the big groove. There are also three pitches of aid which requite a lot of small gear. Portaledges may be needed, the only decent bivi-ledges are above pitches 7 and 21. Apart from the belay bolts (which provide a viable escape route) the climb has minimal fixed gear - a peg on pitch two and a bolt on pitch three. </br>1) 6-, 50m. Climb leftwards to a belay.</br>2) 7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves over an overhang.</br>3) 7, 45m. Head left (bolt) to the base of the long flake/groove system and belay a short way up it.</br>4) 7-, 45m. Climb the groove past some loose blocks.</br>5) 7-, 35m. Continue up the groove. </br>6) 6+, 40m. More groove and flake climbing with an excursion out left at about one third height. Bolt belays. </br>7) 4, 40m. Easier ground leads to a block belay and the site of the First Bivi.</br>8) 2, 60m. Head left to gain the big grassy ramp then climb this to a belay.</br>9) 4+, 65m. Continue to bolt belays at the top of the ramp.</br>10) 6-, 30m. Climb past the right-hand side of a roof and up a crack to a good stance. Bolt belays.</br>11) 6-, 30m. Slabby rock leads to a stance at the base of the Y fork in the road.</br>12) 6+, 25m. Follow crack and slabs leftwards to a stance at the base of the huge groove system - bolt belays.</br>13) 7-, 30m. Climb the left wall of the groove, past loose blocks, until it is possible to get back right into the groove. The right-hand side of a small overhang leads to a good small stance - the Second Bivi-site and base-camp for the battle to come.</br>14) 8, 25m. Desperate climbing up the groove.</br>15) 8-, 20m. More of the same.</br>16) 8, 30m. ... and yet more, following the undercut flake system up and right to a bolted stance just left of the arete.</br>17) A3+, 35m. Move round the arete and climb the thin crack that splits the 'mirror' slab, to a hanging stance.</br>18) A3, 20m. More aid climbing on up the thin crack to a ledge.</br>19) ?, 30m. Cracks lead to a bolted belay - no grade given.</br>20) 7-, 25m. Climb past the side of the huge roof, and the right-hand side of the next one with difficulty, then follow an easier crack to a double-bolt belay on a huge ledge system.</br>21) -, 20m. Traverse left along the break to a great stance in an overhung niche - the perfect bivi-spot.</br>22) 6 A2+, 25m. Climb the back of the niche then exit left and climb the crack before pegging the left-curving crack to a double-bolt stance back on the right.</br>23) 6-, 60m. Climb leftwards over loose rock then climb a huge groove, exit left to its top. Continue to a stance on the shoulder.</br>24) 6, 60m. This is pitch 18 of Storm Pillar. Climb right then left, past a roof, then move back right and climb to the point where pitch 9 of Storpillaren comes in from the right. </br>From here either follow Storpillaren to the Summit, or descend by abseil.
FA. Robert Jasper, Daniela Jasper 7.1998

USER COMMENTS

No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard 8+ 0 of 0
    8+ 0 of 0
    easy 8+ 0 of 0
    hard 8 0 of 0
    8 0 of 0
    easy 8 0 of 0
    hard 8- 0 of 0
    8- 0 of 0
    easy 8- 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.