Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long remote and serious, though less so on all counts, than the routes to the left. The route received its long overdue first free ascent in 2001, though it is still normally done with some aid (6- A1) where needed. Start on the grassy shoulder under the right-hand side of the pillar at a conspicuous groove. The route is best done when completely dry, as the normal top section involves an unprotected slab which would be near impossible when wet, though this can be avoided by some grunge climbing. Carry 2 sets of cams and a full set of wires including micro wires. </br>1) 5, 45m. Climb up the corner/groove, then up a slab to a belay on the right side of a huge block.</br>2) 6-, 30m. Move left and down, traversing back up until you reach a stance at the right-hand edge of a ledge at the base of a left-facing groove.</br>3) 7-, 40m. Move left into the base of the groove (old stance in the base of the chimney on the left). The groove is hard to start then good climbing leads to the top of the corner. Climb the left-hand of two cracks up to a narrow ledge (possible stance). Continue up a short hard groove and the continuation crack system (some loose rock) to the ledge of Storhylla.</br>4) 7, 40m. Climb the tough diagonal jamming crack into the big groove and continue up a chimney to a tiny ledge. The main corner - the original line - can be climbed at 6- A1.</br>5) 6, 20m. Start up a wide crack to a ledge, then climb the prominent left-facing corner to a sloping ledge.</br>6) 7-, 35m. Climb the big chimney, then move up a narrow right-trending ramp to a good belay ledge.</br>7) 6+, 20m. The sustained left-facing corner leads out under a roof, then up to a stance in a niche.</br>8) 6-, 40m. Continue up the steep face left of the stance - tricky to protect and to find the easiest line.</br>9) 5, 55m. Head straight up the face, following the easiest line, then follow an easier groove back to the right to a stance.</br>10) 5, 50m. Move right into a crack which is just to the left of the a large groove. Continue up broken ground (poor protection) then traverse right for 30m to a stance.</br>11) 4, 45m. Climb up and right to the groove/gully. At its top, move left around an arete onto the left side of the ridge and climb the face up and to the right to a huge flat ledge.</br>12) 4, 50m. An easy pitch (BIG loose blocks) up the right side of the ridge leads to a ledge 15m below the top of the ridge. Climb up and left to gain the ridge crest.</br>13) 3, 40m. Follow the ridge up then down, to a fixed belay.</br>14) 30m. Abseil then down climb another 20m to reach a gap and bolt belays.</br>15) 6-, 35m. Climb cracks to a tiny ledge (old peg) then move left onto a blank slab (poor nuts). Now move right and layback an arete (bold) to a ledge with many loose blocks.</br>16) 5, 45m. Climb around the left side of a pinnacle onto steep grass with loose blocks - from here up is the only way out. Make a hard move at the end onto the flat ridge above, and relief!</br>15 and 16 alternative) 5. The final two pitches can be avoided by abseiling 20m down to the right and doing two pitches of 'mungy' grade 5 to reach the crest. This is less good than the normal route, but at least it is a fair bit easier.
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We found the third pitch hard for 7-, more like 7. I think it is a good idea to break it in two pitches and make a stance on the narrow ledge mentioned above.
This is a climb you won't tell your parents about. Some very good and physical pitches on the pillar, but surrounded by deadly climbing and scrambling both on the approach and in particular on the last two pitches. The arete layback on pitch 15 is neither protected nor trivial. Do not trend leftwards on the last grass pitch. The correct way up (slightly to the right of the pillar)is just a little bit more solid though, according to locals. The descent is long and slightly less dangerous than the approach...
Be all means this is not the gandalf wall, but 'deadly climbing', no. This route demands good mountaineering-, routefinding skills and good judgement. Regarding the approache an anchor has been set up avoid some exposed terrain.
Ok, you are just right, deadly was a bit too much. I just wanted to give a slightly different view than the one presented in the guidebook, preventing inexperienced mountaineers like myself from going up there risking their lives. I understand that it is highly recommended by others, but I will not recommend it...
Regarding the descend I think that most partys should count on a little bit more than 1-2 hours the first time they are there....unless you BASE-jump to avoid the last two ugly pitches ;-)
The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 places. If it is dry, slightly harder then Vespillaren, but not really dangerous.