<< Återstilleren < Turborg Classic | Rom and Cola > Sex on the Beach >>
An intricate route up the long groove system that is the main feature of the centre of the cliff. Start under the groove, about 100m left of the start of Rom and Cola. The pitch lengths are estimates.</br>1) 6, 45m. Climb grooves and slabs to a small stance.</br>2) 6+, 45m. Traverse right under the series of overhangs then continue up the awkward groove to a big ledge. </br>3) 7-, 20m. Trend left to the large groove and climb this with difficulty to a belay on top of the hanging flake. </br>4) 5-, 40m. Traverse out right then follow the cracks running diagonally up to the right to a ledge with big block. </br>5) 5+, 20m. Traverse left - poorly protected - then continue across to a stance a short way up the soaring groove.</br>6) 5+, 30m. Climb the groove - a great pitch. </br>7) 6+, 40m. Start with a tough overhanging groove then follow hard cracks up the rib (a little aid was used on the first ascent due to wet conditions) to a good ledge.</br>8) 2, 20m. As for pitch 7 of Rom and Cola.
FA. Andreas Christiansen, Ragnar Ekker, Lars Ekker, Knut Storvik 1998