Ormen Lange

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Puffrisset < Shivering Dick  |  Disco Volante > Baboon >>

70m. (A Viking Longship) Originally an aid climb, this is now a high quality and hard free route named after an ancient Viking ship. The route heads towards the large orange section of rock near the cliff’s centre, with an overhang above, before trending left. Take plenty of small cams.
1) 7-, 40m. Climb the crack in the prominent right-facing corner past an old bolt, then move left through the roof. From the ledge above the roof, go right and follow a good crack to a 2-bolt belay. Sustained and technical.
2) 7+, 15m. Traverse left then climb the crack which takes you to a prominent steep groove. Bolt belay at a sloping ledge.
3) 7-, 15m. Continue up a small groove, then up cracks for 15m to reach a belay bolt.
Descent - Abseil 50m to the ground.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen, Anders Jacobsson 4.1993 FFA. Gustaf Leijontufrud, Joachim Vagner 15.8.2003


With a 70 m rope it is possible to rap to the ground from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch.
Jonas Wiklund - 22/Jul/08

Oh and by the way, this is a really good route but very hard for the grade.
Jonas Wiklund - 26/Jul/10

You can get down from the belay above the roof at the end of the first pitch with a 60 m rope. The bolts are old (presumably date from the 1st aid ascent in 1993) and are at present backed up with a fixed wire. Be prepared to leave something if the wire is gone or has deteriorated. Felt 7- was fair for the first pitch - well-protected, excellent climbing.
Rick McGregor - 09/Aug/12

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