Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
(A Viking Longship) Originally an aid climb, this is now a high quality and hard free route. The route heads towards the large orange section of rock near the cliff's centre before trending left. Take plenty of small cams.</br>1) 7-, 30m. Climb the crack in the prominent right-facing corner past an old bolt, then move left through the roof. From the ledge above the roof, go right and follow a good crack to a double-bolt belay. Sustained and technical.</br>2) 7+, 15m. Traverse left then climb the crack which takes you to a prominent steep groove. Bolt belay at a sloping ledge.</br>3) 7-, 15m. Continue up a small groove, then up cracks for 15m to reach a belay bolt. </br>Descent - Abseil 50m to the ground.
With a 70 m rope it is possible to rap to the ground from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch.
Oh and by the way, this is a really good route but very hard for the grade.
You can get down from the belay above the roof at the end of the first pitch with a 60 m rope. The bolts are old (presumably date from the 1st aid ascent in 1993) and are at present backed up with a fixed wire. Be prepared to leave something if the wire is gone or has deteriorated. Felt 7- was fair for the first pitch - well-protected, excellent climbing.