Ormen Lange

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 7+

Adjacent Routes
<< Puffrisset < Shivering Dick  |  Disco Volante > Baboon >>


(A Viking Longship) Originally an aid climb, this is now a high quality and hard free route. The route heads towards the large orange section of rock near the cliff's centre before trending left. Take plenty of small cams.</br>1) 7-, 30m. Climb the crack in the prominent right-facing corner past an old bolt, then move left through the roof. From the ledge above the roof, go right and follow a good crack to a double-bolt belay. Sustained and technical.</br>2) 7+, 15m. Traverse left then climb the crack which takes you to a prominent steep groove. Bolt belay at a sloping ledge.</br>3) 7-, 15m. Continue up a small groove, then up cracks for 15m to reach a belay bolt. </br>Descent - Abseil 50m to the ground.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen, Anders Jacobsson 4.1993,FFA. Gustaf Leijontufrud, Joachim Vagner 15.8.2003

USER COMMENTS

With a 70 m rope it is possible to rap to the ground from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch.
Jonas Wiklund - 22/Jul/08

Oh and by the way, this is a really good route but very hard for the grade.
Jonas Wiklund - 26/Jul/10

You can get down from the belay above the roof at the end of the first pitch with a 60 m rope. The bolts are old (presumably date from the 1st aid ascent in 1993) and are at present backed up with a fixed wire. Be prepared to leave something if the wire is gone or has deteriorated. Felt 7- was fair for the first pitch - well-protected, excellent climbing.
Rick McGregor - 09/Aug/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

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