<< Shivering Dick < Ormen Lange | Baboon > Apa >>
65m. A direct aid climb up the centre of the face. Start up the prominent right-facing groove of Ormen Lange.
1) A3, 35m. Start (free or clean aid) up Ormen Lange but transfer to the thin seam on the right of the groove and follow this to the roof - the final section is very thin, copper-heads needed. Move left and follow the good crack through the overhang to the first stance on Ormen Lange.
2) A2+, 30m. Aid easily rightwards then head up the thin seam that leads towards the hole (some loose rock) and a three bolt ladder. Continue up the crack until a couple of bolts point the way rightwards to a bolt belay. Abseil descent.
FA. Fredrik Rapp, Mathias Sjöberg 11.1999