<< Trolltrappen < The Approach Pitch | Swedish Highway Blues > Fingerrisset >>
180m. (The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but break right up the 'Direct Crack' (originally a variation on Spurven). Start at the base of the unmistakable large left-trending hollow flake
1) 4, 30m. Climb and walk up the crest of the flake to a small belay. A precarious and unprotected pitch despite its friendly grade.
2) 5-, 30m. Continue up to the roof the traverse right across a slab (often wet) below the roof to its right-hand end, and layback up a steep crack around the roof. Climb grassy cracks onto the large terrace and belay at the base of a thin vertical crack.
3) 5+, 50m. Climb the crack (some grass) which becomes a thin seam, then step right delicately into the left-facing groove. Climb this, past a peg, to reach the third grass terrace and possible stance. Move 20m right to belay on the right at Spurven's 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor.
4) 6-, 40m. 'The Direct Crack'. Climb flakes and cracks into the upper chimney then step out right on to a small ledge to find a superb crack. Climb this by finger then hand jamming, gradually easing to an uncomfortable stance with a large sling-festooned spike belay.
5) 3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor on the shoulder on the right.
FA. Finn Jensen, Niels Poulsen 14.7.1979. They thought they were climbing Spurven but later realised that they had done a new route. FA. (The Direct Crack) Odd-Roar Wiik, Egil Eliassen 5.1992
Definatly worth climbing but beware - we found this a bit harder than suggested. The first pitch has no gear and is easily fall-off-able. The third pitch is a moot point. We met an E3 leader who found it desperate. Us lowly E1 leaders got up it but were gripped. That said the route is worth doing. The 4th pitch is brilliant.
jon bursnall - 21/Mar/08
I thought the 3rd pitch the crux and the peg, in 2003 at least, worthless. Worth 6 I think.
Jonathan Lagoe - 27/Mar/08
In comparison to the other commenters, I found it all pretty much as the grades implied. Pitch 3 is delicate but not desperate. The Direct Crack has a hard move to enter but is all very well protected.
Toby - 28/Mar/08
1. Impressive Megaflake, bring a Friend 5or6
2. Impressive overhang which is surprisingly easy
3. Very delicate and a kind of scary if your not safe in this grade
4. Superbe climbing, not to hard for the grade.
5. Not very interesting, but it is part of the route as well.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments