Swedish Highway Blues
<< The Approach Pitch < Colibrien | Fingerrisset > Odins bue >>
210m. The left-hand arete of the crag in five long pitches. The exact line is uncertain, and some aid is needed - four blade pegs should cover it. Start on the left-hand end of the ledge below the upper part of the buttress</br>1) 6+ A1, 35m. From a perched block, climb slabs and grooves (a little aid in the upper groove) to reach a crack. Up this then trend left across the slab to a bolt belay.</br>2) 5+ A1, 35m. Climb left to the arete, crossing to the left-hand side to outflank the overhang (some aid). Back on the right-hand side, climb a long crack (loose block to the right) to a ledge. Peg and bolt belay.</br>3) 6-, 45m. Climb a short crack then traverse the slab rightwards under the overhang to reach a crack splitting its right-hand side. Climb this to a ledge with peg belays.</br>4) 5, 45m. Climb rightwards to reach a crack on the right-hand side of the arete and follow this as it widens to a stone-filled gully. Up this to a belay in the base of the huge chimney on Odins bue.</br>5) 4, 50m. Walk into the back of the chimney and climb to a ledge at its top.
FA. V.?atava, M.Vrkoslav 16.7.1999