Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
200m. (Odin's Bow) One of Lofoten's most sought-after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliff's left-hand side. It features masses of laybacking and undercutting. Although the rock is beautiful clean granite, some persistent wet streaks mean the route should only be attempted after a long dry spell. Carry a good rack including micro wires and duplicate cams in the mid ranges plus some larger ones. Start at the base of the large, left-facing, Yosemite-like groove.</br>1) 7-, 30m. Layback up the left-facing overlap, using some extremely thin jams, moving around an overhang to a hanging belay at a foothold.</br>2) 7, 25m. Continue laybacking and jamming up the unrelentingly steep groove to a tiny stance on the left.</br>3) 7, 25m. Two bolts protect hard moves to pass the overlap on the right to reach the higher arch. Layback left up this (often wet) past a peg and a wide section continuing with more difficulty to a hanging belay at a bolt.</br>4) 7, 30m. Traverse up and left, undercutting along the arch in a spectacular position. When the crack thins out, undercut left before making a very thin move to better jams and a small belay stance at a flake on the left.</br>5) 6+, 40m. Climb a small corner to a hollow flake and the base of a thin vertical crack in the upper slab. Climb the crack to the base of a groove then make a heroic move escaping out left to gain and climb a slabby corner to the base of the grim cleft of the 'Troll's Chimney'.</br>6) 4, 50m. Walk into the back of the chimney and climb to a ledge at its top.
The best route I have done in Lofoten. Bring lots and lots of friend #1.5 and lots of friend #2. (Friend #2 is more useful on this route than red camalot).