Cmelák

2 Stars
Technical
 A3

Adjacent Routes
<< Fingerrisset < Odins bue  |  Nemesis trollkirka > Spurven >>


(The Bumble Bee) A major route up the soaring buttress to the right of Odins Bue. Carry a big aid rack including a full set of cams, two sets of wires, 10 knifeblades, 5 angles, 3 rurps, cam hooks and a range of regular hooks. Start at the left-facing groove right of Odins Bue.</br>1) A2, 30m. Climb the groove (rurps and birdbeaks early on) to reach a poor double-bolt belay.</br>2) A2, 40m. Continue aid climbing up the groove and crack to reach a niche with a peg and strange bolt belay. This is just above the bolts on pitch 3 of Odins Bue.</br>3) 5, 30m. Exit rightwards then climb the slab passing some loose flakes to a stance (bolt belay) under the huge roof.</br>4) A3, 15m. The 'Be as a Butterfly' pitch. Wild climbing over the roof and up the open groove, passing some loose rock, to reach a small stance on the left. </br>5) 5- A2, 25m. Continue up the right-trending groove to reach the hanging slab above then move left to a stance on the edge. </br>6) 5, 40m. Make an exposed traverse left to reach a crack, then climb this and the continuation off-width to reach a ledge. Easy ground leads to the crest of the buttress.
FA. Dalibar Mlejnek, Roman Kalpárek (Czech Republic) 13/14.7.1999

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