Havørnen

2 Stars
Pumpy
 6+

Adjacent Routes
<< Spurven < Spurven/Colbrien  |  Tranedansen > Anachronism >>


170m. (The Sea Eagle) A link-up of several strenuous cracks gives a worthwhile combination.
1) 2) 5- or 5+, 60m. Climb the first two pitches of either Spurven or Colibrien.
3) 6+, 40m. Climb the left-hand of the two finger cracks in the steep wall behind the ledge - sustained with several thin moves. At the end of the crack, climb across to the left then move up onto the third grass terrace. Traverse right along this to the 2 bolt belay/abseil anchor on Spurven.
4) 6+, 25m. Jam to, and over, a small overhang directly above the belay, then continue up the strenuous crack to a flake. Step right and belay on top of a large block on the right.
5) 6-, 25m. From the block, traverse right into the chimney. Climb this, making an awkward exit to the right at its top around a flake. Move right into Spurven's upper crack system and continue up to the spike belay on Spurven.
6) 6, 20m. Strenuous jamming leads up the rough crack ('Thorbjørnsrisset') on the steep left-hand wall above. Climb all the way up the crack, past the left side of a chockstone, and up to a good belay ledge with a 2 bolt belay.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold first top-roped Pitch 3. Arild Meyer and Kjell Skog first climbed Pitch 5 during the first ascent of Spurven in 7.1977. Pitch 6 - Thorbjørnsrisset - was first climbed by Thorbjørn Enevold and NNKS students in the summer of 1989. Ed Webster and Leif Henriksen climbed the complete route described on 29.7.1998

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