Ørneryggen

2 Stars
Strong
Loose
 5+

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Direkte-Innsteget > Herman Hedning >>


100m. (Eagle Ridge) An interesting climb with an exciting finish plus the bonus of a nice summit. Protection is generally good, but there is some crumbly rock on the first pitch. The climb is located on the steep buttress that forms the left edge of the South Face of Glåmtinden.
1) 5, 38m. Begin under the steep section of the ridge, in a sandy gully. Head straight up a steep groove to a finger crack on the right side of the ridge. Alternatively (easier) reach the start of the finger crack by traversing left under a roof. Both starts have some poor rock and loose flakes, though it doesn't detract too much from the climbing. Jam the crack, step out onto the steep left-hand wall and move up right to a small stance on the arete.
2) 5+, 32m. Step right into an easy crack and climb to its top. Traverse left and follow another vertical crack to an exposed ledge on the left, under a leaning wall, which fortunately is equipped with huge holds. Sprint up this to an excellent belay ledge. The loose groove to the right is an oft-climbed (poor) variation that isn't any easier.
3) 30m. Walk right on the ledge, then move up and back left (one awkward move up a corner) to reach the flat summit of Glåmtinden complete with summit log.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold, Brynjar Østgaard, Odd-Birger Hanssen 11.6.1993

USER COMMENTS

A really nice day out. A short day but some pleasant climbing.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

Really nice approach, viewsand descent. The rock quality in the grade 5 pitch was poor at least in the left hand side variation. The grade 5+ pitch was really steep with good holds - nice!
jukka leinonen - 14/Jun/10

We climbed a Variation some 5meters to the right of the Original route. The Variation is straighter than the Original and has 3 pitches (5-/5+/5). The protection is good all the way. We had bad weather and did the short start but the climbing should be better with the Direkte-Innsteget.
1) Climb obliquely to the right in the sandy gully as in the right-hand variation of Original Ørneryggen. Instead of traversing back to the left continue upwards some 10 meters. The first belay station is in a good stance next to an obelisk (about 55meters or 25meters depending on whether you take the Direkte-Innsteget or not).
2) Continue straight upwards the steep wall using good holds and cracks. Surpass a small roof after climbing some 15meters. After that the Variation and the Original go together briefly where the Original diverts to the right at start of its 5+ pitch. Continue straight upwards toward a hole in the roof to gain the big ledge (45meters).
3) Continue straight upwards 3 meters using first good holds and then a 3-meter hand crack. After that it's easy scrambling to the summit!
jukka leinonen - 07/Jun/11

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