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56m. A great route and an astounding effort for its day; the climb remains steep and intimidating, with an atmosphere second to none and a spectacular finale.
1) 4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges, continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.
2) 4+, 14m. The Rubenson Traverse; trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall on a line of superb jugs passing a couple of pegs to an exposed move round the arete which locates a good stance and twin bolt belay round the arete.
2) 4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove-system on the left to reach the gap between the horns (views!). Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Big Horn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay.
FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910
Did it in one megapitch from the ground, but with only 3 placements to avoid ropedrag. I would do it again like this. Nice climbing, but not worth doing it as a multipitch route. Top50 maybe for the nice summit, but not for the quality of the climbing.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
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