Råna

2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
Loose
 6-

Adjacent Routes
<< Highway to Heaven < Meyer/Wiik ruta  |  None > None >>


Approach - Park on the right just before the sharp bend leading up to the Svolvær Airport Tunnel, 2km east of Svolværgeita. The cliff towers above the boulder slope that hangs over the road. (From the Svolvær Post Office, it is 3.5km to the parking spot.) From the road, walk back towards Svolvaer for 200m then scramble up the scree and boulder slope and into the rocky gully on the left-hand side of Råna. Then head up and right by some very steep and insecure grass climbing (Grade 2, avoid if at all wet) to reach a bush covered terrace below the base of two steep, left-facing grooves that identify the start of the route. Begin just to the right of a small cave or niche below a sharp-edged, left-facing groove.
1) 4+, 35m. Just right of a small cave, climb up a short groove, then follow a crack system straight up to a large detached flake. Above are two grooves, climb either one and belay on a ledge.
2) 3+, 20m. A short pitch gains the huge, bushy terrace above. Move left to belay below a steep wall. (DO NOT climb higher up on the terrace to your right, towards an old off-route peg.)
3) 5-, 35m. Steps out left from the belay past a small overhang and onto the steep face above. Now climb cracks straight up the middle of the face, then move over another small overhang and climb up to a ledge with a tree belay. A good pitch.
4) 5- 40m. Continue up the crack system, with a hard move at the start. Higher, step left under a block and around an overhang, then climb up a chimney to another bushy terrace. Above are two prominent corner/cracks; step up to a good ledge at the base of the left-hand of these.
5) 5-, 45m. Climb ther grooves and cracks into the route’s upper chimney system, and continue up the chimney (watch for loose rock) until an obvious traverse out left gains a big ledge with a large, belay spike. (Note: The FA team traversed out of the chimney halfway up, and then climbed a parallel chimney on the left, which is less direct.)
6) 5, 40m. Climb a vertical crack on the right, then step left and up to the bottom of the large, prominent black slab on the left, which can be easily seen from the road. Traverse left at the bottom of the slab, then climb a vertical crack which splits its centre. Now traverse left along a ledge to an excellent belay ledge under the crucial groove with its wide crack.
6a) 4+, 50m. An easier variation, from the bottom of the slab, climbs a terrace up and right, then goes up an easy groove until a 15 metre horizontal traverse back to the left reaches the normal belay ledge.
7) 6-, 25m. A sustained pitch of hand and fist jamming leads up the steep groove to the large belay ledge.
8) 4+, 45m. Climb the short arete on the right, and finish easily up more broken rock to the summit.
FA. On new maps, the peak the climb ascends is called Svolen (446m); on old maps the peak was called Råna.
FA. Arild Meyer and Finn Tore Bjørnstad made the first ascent of the route in four and a half hours on.6.14, 1978. They used one point of aid (for a rest) on Pitch 7 - but typically still gave the pitch a rating of 5+!

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